Thursday, 4 December 2014

5- Malaysia: No Malaise at all

Welcome to Malaysia. Another stop on our Asian adventure. This time we begin gently in the paradise island of Langkawi before we use public transport to get ourselves across the country and down to Singapore- no flashpacking with drivers here! 

Langkawi is a beautiful spot, white sandy beaches, turquoise water- you know yourself, the usual! Quite a relaxing few days with a bit of touristing thrown in. Did some island hopping between islands- there are 104 in the archipelago so got to see a bit of variety, similar views to Halong Bay in Vietnam, gorgeous. Another day we rented a car to drive around the island. Quick and easy way to do it, visited a few of the less built up areas, some waterfalls and even called into the hawker night market for dinner.

When we think of Malaysians we generally always think of the shawls they wear- it gives the women a very distinctive look. One of the things that really surprised us when we got to Georgetown in Penang was the lack of them around the place. When we read up on it, we discovered that it’s primarily Chinese in Penang- on enquiring further we found out that there are almost 7 million Chinese in Malaysia, an insane number and it can be clearly seen around the place- they really are taking over the world!

Georgetown was one of our favourite spots so far. I described it as Asia’s version of Melbourne- famous for their food, their street art and as mentioned above, has loads of Chinese! Since 2008 Georgetown has been a UNESCO world heritage city, one of the campaigns they have run in the last few years was to encourage artists to do street art around the city. There are now fifty plus pieces around the city and has become a bit of a tourist trail to go around and find as many of them as you can. As with all art, some of it is very cool and clever while others is…….. an acquired taste. Most of what we saw fell into the former category, really cool pieces with characters painted to interact with the buildings and objects around them. Hopefully the photos do them justice.

As I’m a married man now, I’m always trying to impress my wife by bringing her to nice restaurants in town and sampling the local cuisine- in Georgetown you can do just that all while spending very little. Over our three days, we spent a total of $24 on six meals out and the food was oh so good. Eating at markets or restaurants as recommended by the guesthouse turned into a goldmine of good food. 

To give you an idea, the map of Georgetown that we had, listed 109 recommended food outlets so we were not short of choices and thanks to the pricelist we were left with plenty of money left over- I’m sure we’ll spend it quickly in future destinations!

Bus trips between destinations in Asia are always entertaining, most countries have a network of tourist buses or minivans that go between the tourist destinations for a reasonable price. It doesn’t seem to matter which country you’re in- they always seem to find characters to drive the buses and all of these characters seem to abide by a bunch of unwritten rules to entertain or drive to despair the unwitting tourists! 

So without further ado, I give you "The anatomy of an Asian bus trip":
1- You will always receive a pickup time, the bus will never turn up at that time, usually allow 30-40 minutes after the suggested time. Don’t fret, this additional time is always included when they calculate the arrival time
2- Do not expect the driver to take a direct route when a circuitous route is far more efficient! When picking up fellow travellers from other guesthouses, arriving back at the same spot numerous times is to be expected
3- There will never be spare seats on the bus. It seems to be a rule with these companies that they somehow never manage to undersell a bus trip- it’s truly admirable!
4- Trips usually are accompanied by the musical symphonies of the native country blaring out
5- Expect to be amused/ bemused in equal measure

Our driver on our trip from Georgetown to Tanah Rata was not a let down and ticked all of the above boxes- our favourite incident was just after he went through a toll booth on a highway, he decided that was the perfect time to pull over and do some checks on his van! So fifty metres past the toll booth, he pulls over, lights up a cigarette, goes from tyre to tyre and gives each one a good violent kick to (presumably) check the pressure then decided to check the oil, sure what else would you do while smoking!? Thankfully all parts of the vehicle passed his examination- not sure what he would have done had it not passed but it was a perfect place to check anyway. Got to love Asia!

Next stop thanks to our wonderful bus driver was the Cameron Highlands, a pleasant change from the 100% humidity that welcomed us everywhere else- high up in the mountains so nice and cool, main peak we visited was over 2,000 metres above sea level. Nice couple of days seeing the countryside, beautiful tea plantations there, had a nice few cuppas for myself as my wife tried a variety of flavoured teas- word to the wise, there's a reason nobody sells chocolate tea anywhere!

So after ten days in Malaysia we finally got ourselves to KL for a look. Our first big city of the trip (neither Perth or Colombo are THAT big!). A nice city, very modern with a touch of old school thrown in- old temples, market stalls in some parts of city but overall its got more in common with Singapore then Colombo. Did a lot of exploring on foot, so a whole lot of walking, pretty tricky city to navigate through as (1) not very pedestrian friendly, (2) road layouts/ intersections aren't signed very well (3) 100% humidity, (4) I have no sense of direction whatsoever!

Thankfully Aoife is far better with a map and knowing her right from her left so we got around OK. Certainly made me miss Melbourne's lovely grid layout!


With any trip to Sydney we gravitated to the harbour to see the bridge and the opera house, in KL all roads seem to lead to the Petronas Towers. A fantastic set of buildings that tower over the city. At night especially they're an awesome site. They were the tallest building in the world until 2004. Currently the Burj Khalifa in Dubai is the tallest (almost double the height of the Petronas Towers!)- while the Burj Khalifa is an amazing site its kind of bizarre as the views from one side of it are mostly sand, it just doesn't really make any sense to have a building that tall there.  Contrary to that the Petronas towers fit in the middle of this big city and are surrounded by other skyscrapers also. It's got personality and personality goes a long way!

If you want a view of the Petronas Towers then you couldn’t beat having a drink in The Heli Bar Lounge- during the day it’s a helipad, at night it’s a bar! So you could say that at night it’s a Health & Safety nightmare- Oh but what a view. Fantastic having a beer and sitting ten metres from the edge of a 35 story building protected by the might that is a velvet rope- Stay safe everybody! Only in Asia could a place like this exist- could you imagine the paperwork and the laughter in the public servants office if you proposed a bar like this in the western world- we can only enjoy it while it lasts. Please note nobody was hurt in the taking of this photograph!

Anyone who’s been to KL knows that they could spend days thralling through the markets that are here embracing their inner consumer searching for real genuine Jimmy Choo shoes, Prada handbags, ray bans sunglasses, rolex watches etc. I reckon it’s a real indication of when a product has “made it” that suddenly it’s in these markets been hawked for ten percent (if you haggle!) of it’s western price. Since we were last in Asia four years ago, the big product that is now everywhere are Beats by Dre- fancy headphones by the rapper which retail at $400 but are available (if you haggle!) for $30! Out of curiosity I inspected the goods just to see what they were like- in summary the packaging was top notch but the contents of the boxes was chronic, so badly made, they would have fallen apart after a week if lucky, these were not the product that Apple would pay $3b for. You certainly have to give the salespeople credit pushing this as if it’s the real thing especially when everyone knows it’s only the handbags that are real!

Our final Malaysian stop before we head off to Singapore is Melaka, another UNESCO world heritage city (they applied with Georgetown on the one application, saves paperwork!)- a colonial city with Portuguese, Dutch and British influences. A lovely city to walk around but the real highlight comes not in the form of walking around and seeing the history, the temples and the lovely buildings but in the form of the souped up tricked out horror shows that are the trishaws that go around the city! Hilariously kitsch, wonderful eyesores that they are, they are all decked out in themes- “Hello Kitty”, “Frozen”, “Superman”, “Spongebob Squarepants” you name it. Flowers, dolls, sound systems, flashing lights, they go all out to haul you in!

As to why they look like they do, I can’t give you an answer, the only thing it reminded us was the classic Asian habit of follow the leader- our favorite example was when we were driving up the mountains to Kandy in Sri Lanka, one entrepreneurial local must have decided to start a car wash. In order to advertise his car wash he stuck a hose between two rocks, pointed it in the air and turned it on- genius, sure beats a billboard. On seeing the success he was having, all of the locals (we assume!) mimicked this tactic and as such you drive up the mountain passing hose after hose of water flying up in the air trying to get you into their “car washes”! No such thing as a unique idea here.


And if that doesn’t sum up how Asia works, then you definitely must visit to see it for yourself!

Click here to see a selection of photos from our Malaysian trip

Our route: Fly Colombo to Langkawi, Langkawi to Penang, Penang to Tanah Rata (Cameron Highlands), Tanah Rata to Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur to Melaka, Melaka to Singapore

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